Dress design draping and flat pattern making pdf download

Sewers who have ever longed to create clothing with the distinctive look of haute couture will love this book. They'll learn the finer points of hand sewing, shaping, and finishing for a high-end, professional look. This book is for all sewing enthusiasts who appreciate fine workmanship. Patternmaking for Dress Design covers patternmaking techniques for 9 iconic dress designs, focusing not only on the concepts needed to draft patterns, but also uniquely exploring the history of each garment design to reveal what lies behind their enduring appeal today.

Each chapter provides easy-to-follow patterns for the sheath, empire, shift, trapeze, wrap, strapless, shirtwaist, cheongsam and coatdress. Issues for include "Recent publications on theatre architecture," no. Providing skills needed to translate design ideas and working sketches into garment patterns, this book presents a variety of methods.

It is arranged in self-contained lessons with text and diagrams associated with the emphasis on a 3-dimensional, practical approach. Briefly describes the contents of books that explain specific skills and techniques in fields, such as business, graphics, health, and manufacturing. The Fashion Design Manual is a comprehensive introduction to the world of fashion. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes condensed to the one-word Patternmaking , but it can also be written pattern - making or pattern cutting.

A sloper pattern home sewing or block pattern industrial production is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed. The process of changing the size of a finished pattern is called grading. Several companies, like Butterick and Simplicity, specialize in selling pre-graded patterns directly to consumers who will sew the patterns at home.

In order to set up a list of libraries that you have access to, you must first login or sign up. Then set up a personal list of libraries from your profile page by clicking on your user name at the top right of any screen. You also may like to try some of these bookshops , which may or may not sell this item. Separate different tags with a comma. To include a comma in your tag, surround the tag with double quotes. Your email address will not be published. Thanks, Susanne. Teri — This book is no longer in the public domain.

Someone realized how valuable it was! This book is no longer in the public domain? Was the copyright renewed or something like that? Thank you and best wishes. I believe that the copyright was renewed. Disfribung fhe Excess Disiribung There will be excess fabric both above and below the bust as the a5 the tabric fabric is now pinned.

Decide whether. Pinch up tiny tucks along the top of the lower I. Convert the tucks to unter gathers later when joining the seam. Work in as much fullness ess as is becoming; underarm pin becoming, releasing the underarm pin if Ccessary to ease the fabric farther forward horizon horizonecessary. Farming fhe Waisine Trim the waistline seam, leaving a 2 inch extension. It is unnecessary to clip the extension below the waistline if the blouse is gathered at the waistline.

If a waistline dart is used the blouse will t the waistline closely and the-extension below it must be clipped as explained in Problem l, page Mark the center back. Cut out oul the neckline. DRESS 3. Pin to the form. Form the shoulder line as in Problem l, except hat ll is unnecessary to have a dart at the back of the neck or at the shoulder.

The ease along the back edge of the shoulder is of course, necessary. Establish the upper armscye line. Ncver mix gathers and pleats, or gathcrsi.

Tucks and pleats, however, have. Designing the Lower Edge of lhe Yolxe The back yoke should be approximately the same depth as the front so that it appears to continue the front line. The elfect is better, however if the back is slightly shallower than the front. The line of the yoke should curve upward very slightly as it goes across the shoulder blades toward the armscye. Tu r n this under and pin it perpendicular to the edge. All darts, starting from whatever points around the outer edge of a pattern point toward the bust in front and toward the curve of the shoulders and shoulder blades in the back.

Always place the fabric on the form with the straight lengthwise grain at the Center unless the d0 sign demands t r u e bias as shown in cowl drapery. Always drape with enough ease around the bust so hat the fabric falls free at the front and back of the armscye and forms a small vertical fold. Vertical design lines should usually slant toward 1 the center as they run from the shoulder down to the waistlixie in order to harmonize with the Silhouette ol the gure.

Horizontal design lincs should cut across the gure above or below the bust but never directly al its highest point, and should curve slightly upward as they approach the underarm in order to appear level. Whenever the design is to have gathers at the edge of a yoke, it is consistent to have gathers at the waistline edge as well. Always push the fabric up above the waistline for extra blousing length whenever there are gathers.

Form the lower armscye line and the underarm line of the back in the same way as for the lower section of the front. Lap the front over the back at the underarm seam. The mustcr blofk puucrn is a foundation pattern mzulc b Cithcr lraping on the individual drCSS. Rulers, a triangle and curves if 9. A large at work table. BMW 3 Taigm mlcd um mm m Wim f he mutet da?! Although the position of the dart and du: shape of the pattem have both been changed by thise Operation, the size and t have not been altered in any W37 3.

Redraw the new dart, curving it so that it entersv the shoulder at a right angle see Figure 78 True up, all vertical darls, following the side of the dar: next; to thc Center of the garment. As i: is originally drawn, the will be so large. This is not only unattractive but causes the blouse l0.

On the other hand, a single dar: in I f blouse front is too large to be shortened without bul": ing awkwardly at ins tip. Problem 2, illustrated 5!. Redraw bolh Center that is, the edge toward the center [hat the inside edge line of the garment.

Never change the size of darts at the outside edge of he the pattern paltern when trueing them up. Step I dart to 1o emer shoulder at a right Fig. Step SlCp 2Curve dar: righz angle. The preceding problem showed hat that a blouse ts beuer if i1" the excess belter exccss is divided between two darts radialing from the bust outward to two different edges iating of the he pauern, since two of w o smaller darts taper out more moothly when shortened than a single large one.

Draw the pencil line and slash exactly as in the receding problem. Pivot the pattern at a1 the point poim of the old dart to V. The underarm dart is usually placed as high up under the arm as possible without interfering with the armscye scam. This is done because iLis not.

The underarm underarnl dar: dart should always be invisible. Draw a line from the point of the waistline dart the location of the xhe projected new dar: dart under the arm. Partly close the old basic dart, pivoting it at its point to divide it between the two positions. Redraw both darts to shorten shorlen them. Mastenr M astor. S; Dotted otted lme hne shows method melhod of trueing vertical darts. Master dart underarm.

Doued Dotted lmes hnes show method method of. Trhe a cowl. See Chapter 7. Draw a line from the point of the basic dart to the new position, the neck at the center front. Slash the new line and close the old dart; or 3. Divide the dart, placing part of it at the underarm seam near the waislline. This placement gen-. Add fabric for a tie if the design calls for see Figure T0 add more ease around the bust than the basic dart provides, spread the pattern apart at the top afgthe basic dart see Figure A good foundation pattern ts very closely, Willi?

It usually ts too closely, however, to worn, and more ease should be allowed around thef bust. Figure 83 shows a blouse pattern with the entirtij. Mauer dar: near lhe waistline. BLOUSES all pattern slashcd so hat a Figure 87 shows a pattern t0 neck thc Lhc lrom fall to vertically folds will tend the lolds because littlc radiates fullness Thc very Lhe lhe waistline.

Spreading the slashes intensies the curve of the waistline, and fullness therelore tends to spring from [hat curve. This design will be somewhat less.

Be cautious, however, in assuming hat factor that hat other is one there because always happen,. Fullness generally tion ol slashcs. Notice that incrcases as the dart point is pivoted waistline curve increases waisllinc outward. Gaihers or folds tend to run in thc direaion direuion ol slashes. In ln Fig. And in m Fig. F" t h e fullfu 1. Note hat that the three fmished nished cont. Always take imo accoum the elfect of Lhe the curves of the body on Lhe the nal pag. This, of course, is at course block.

This shortens the pattern so that it dnws at the outer corner of the yoke. T0 correct this, slash Qnce from the outer corner of the yoke line either t0 theunderann seam or to the armscye.

When it is spread out, this one slash swings the yoke section up out o! This difculty arises only when you slash vertically, as in Figure 87, and when the yolte is both simulated and curves upward. See Chapter 7 Figures , for a similar example applied to simulated yokes in skirts. Inierpreng the Cenfer Fron? Darf af fhe Necltline a: o Cowl 1. Reread the directions for draping cowls pages. On a copy of the master pattern, draw a line from the point of the basic dart to the center front neckline.

Cut this line and pivot the pattem at the dart to the neckpoint of the dart to transfer the basic line at the center front. NOCH D Tovincrease the depth of the folds and of the neckline, it is possible t0 proceed in twog a Measure down from the side vof the neck e form the desired neckline depth.

Placing an Lsq on the center front line, pivot the front patternn v. Pivoting the pattern outward in this way in the intensity of the waistline curve and forces some the cowl drapery to spring from the point on the Waise; line where the pattern was pivoted. If you prefer a cowl that hangs heavily at the cen front, follow Method b. Draw new center front line and the cowl neckline.

Neck Deplh DeDlh. Cowl yoke: Procedure for blocking blocking the cowl Figs. Procedurc dart to the thc from the dar: line a line and the Draw 1 yoke l cowl off the yoke and add Cowl of [he the yoke; 2 Cut o gdge edge f 3 Spread the lower section for ease at the yoke drapery; S yeke dart t0 lo the undcrarm near the waistlinc.

Cowl with part of o! Very shallow cowl tained at an the waislline. Cowl drapery in u a yoke. PlaCe Place the Center front of the pattern on the true.

This cowl automatically places the Cowl neck edge o! Lneck Cowl drapery in a yoke. Fabrics used for cowl Cowl draping draping should have grain which is very inconspicuous. Figures igures 94 and 95 show the procedure for blockus.

Figure 96 shows two steps in making fng " z Cowl cowl yoke with tted tled folds falling from points along e shoulder and with a seam at the Center center front of e yoke.

Figure 97 shows the nished effect of this wl yoke. Covl yoke with a shaped seam at Center front: 2Slash and spread the Step l-Mark as shown. Step 2-Slash pattern. Figure 98 shows a blouse with spaced knots. Draw a horizontal line from the point of the basic waistline dart to the Center front. Slash the line and transfer the Original dart to. Always slash perpendicular to her edge, if possible. Place the grain indicator perpendicular waistline at the Center of the section. Figure the placing of the gkain.

Notice that, as a result of the slashing, the un u seam is curved and the armscye curve is inte The Center front is also an intense curve and therefcgae the grain must be placed at the Center of the 4 V.

Spread the slash over the bust but keep it closed at both ends. Thus the waistline and: shoulder line remain unchanged in length, but the; curve of each increases. Do not forget to trace the exact curve in the nal pattern.

Jnc-hall to two times and one-half onethat [hat rule lt is a general gathers reqtiire require one and galhers gcneral and to be is that lS of the half t0 two times the length space length fulldesired the on amount the depentling depending gathered, ness and also on the t e x t u r e and thickness of the fabric.

First frorn the point of the waistline dart to the line from rule a linc shoulder position see sce Figure I Then, using the as a guide, redraw the line by hand, putting ruled line 21s in enough curve so that it enters the shoulder at a c e n t e r over the angle. The - line Inay coincide with the basic waistline dart see may l. French dart line drawn closer to center front than Fig.

French dart pattern increased for ease over bust; 2 Dotted I l Length I line indicates a more pronounced curve over bust. Figure I02 , although in some cases the spacing may be improved if the front panel is narrowed at the waistline see Figure Place the master pattern Order against the form or hold it up against yourself in order to sketch in a l ecoming becoming line.

Pencil the French dart line and crossmark it l. Cut the pattern apart along this line. Add ease both lengthwise and crosswise, crosswise because the side front section of a French dart blouse always ts better if the ease is increased over the bust. Spreading over the bust has the same effect eect as forcing the grain inward above the bust when draping the French dart. French dart pattern with ease introduced ig. Mark the straight grain in the side front section perpendrcular to the waistline at the C perpendicular e n t e r.

Because a French dart bodice ts line, tightly and is frequently [requently used to provide contrast with a bouffant bouant skirt, the French dart line is sometimes widened at the shoulder and narrowed at the waist. This provides some of the ease which is required over the bust. Thc more the Center front panel is narrowed, however the more ease the side from panel needs t0 provide a smooth t over the bust curve.

A dress with a yoke simply overlaid on a at pattern, with no transfer of the dart to its edge, is a serious mistake; not only because the dart positions are unrelated to the line of the yoke, but also because no ease is introduced along the edge joining the yoke to the body section.

The design is therefore still, tight, and totally unrelated to the body contour. Figure illustrates this error. F igure I08, on the other hand shows the transfer of part of the waistline dart to the yoke edge in Fig. Part of dart transferred t0 yoke edge. Mastcr dar: entircly transferred to yoke edge and pattern pivoted outward lor e x t r a fullness.

Notice also the shap ing along both the lower and side edges of the yoke. This shows hat the dart was really transferred from the wvaistline to the yoke edge. Figure shows the same design except that gathers at the yoke edge have been obtained by transferring the entire waistline dart to the yoke edge and by spreading the pattern at the bust to let in even more fullness. Do nol draw the line with a ruler but curve it slightly upward along its lower edge as i1 approaches the armscye.

See yoke spacing in Draping a Blouse with a Yoke,. Crossmark and cul the yoke line. Draw a line lrom the point of the basic dart to the yoke edge and slash it. Pivot the paucrn oulward a1 lhe poim ol h6 basit dar: to shift parl ol the waistline dar: to thc yoke. Figure shows thc paltcrn pivoled and all Ol the l a r l translcrrcrl to thc cdgc ol lhc yoke.

Retaining somc o! Tuch the gathcr, or casc thc cxccss along thc uppcr edge of lnwvr sccliun inlo Ihr: yoke. For 2 morc onlpliculcd und unusual yoke design. This Iatter type cut. The method discussed here applies to t0 an asymmetri caIIy balanccd blouse with all the pattern edges alike on the right und IcIt Iclt sides but with the opening o ofI lt is blocked exactly Center. It balexactIy Iikc a symmetrically sylnmetrically anced one cxcept [hat it i5 is necessary to t0 draw the design except that on an cntire front Iront of 0I thc master mastet block pattern rather - than on a pullern Ior only pztttern onIy half the front.

Make z: u paper copy of oI the entire front of the master pattern from clearly pauern with the C e n t e r front clearIy marked. To to spread the fuII cdge. The principles oI of blocking designs on the back of the mastcr pattern are essenlially essentially the same as for the front.

There arc, Iront. Becausc blouse Because the curves of the gure a1 the back are divided between the a: ol" the shoulder top oI and the thc shoulder shouIder blades, the foundation master pat[ m has two darts t eC rn a very smaII small one either at the back of the neck or ur at zu the shoulder seam, and a second waistIine up to the shoulder Iarger one from the waistlinc blades.

Right Fig. Right or overlapped side oI o! Genmuy should take your cue for the design of the blnuse from the front, and let the back carry oA mulifs expressed in the front. Very complicated blq backs, especially chose involving gathers. Draw the yoke line and c u t the pattem apart. See the discussion of yoke spacing on pages Transfer of the shoulder dart to the waistline.

The great size of the dar: increases the width across the shouldcr blades. Figures l l 3 and l l 4 show the procedure waistline the to livide also lt is this transfer.

Closing of shoulder dart and translcr of part dart t0 waistline yoke edge. Pattern pivotcd ouxward at point ol dart l0 introducc lullncss m. Jlose the shoulder dart. The lower edge ol the. I14 Shouldcr und shouldcr height correcshow: ncccssary l a n Icngth tions. For actual gathcrs, completcly close ll the Lhe waistlinc da For still luller gathcrs. But whe ull ol" thc shouldcr lurt is trunslcrrcd u lhc lower heuer l0 ctlgc ol n Iccp ynkc.

How h8 cvcr. Draw thc to 9 inches below t0 7 about and waistlinc the to parallel parallel there is a slight curve along the waist hat lherc it. Noticc that thc master blouse and skirt patterns. Dccp yokc-part yokc- part of shoulder dart retained and Fjg. I17 l7 yoke yokc supplies casc lor arm movcment. Figure l umid tightness over the lhe shoulder shows this. A deep yoke is not well edge ol for use in Sports adaplcd adapted sporls garments, for it obviously ' rcslricts rcstricts uction more than a shallow yoke with fullness lt.

For the two-gore skirt pauern, pattern, see pages 65 Place the waistline of ol the thc two-gore skirt against the waistline of the basic blouse Vthe walstline pattern.

The darts 0f of the waist waisl and skirt are draped to t0 coincide but are in size. French Darf Dar? Snugly see Figures l I. Place the lengthwise center of the.

Slash the side lront secnon sectmn of the blouse horizontally from the bust to the underarm seam to t0 add ease over the bust. See directions for the French French blocklng blocking dart waist, pages 53 I-rench da Trace around the pattrn with a traci Hold the wheel tightly against a ruler whercvbf line should be straight.

Trace curves freehand; the aid of a curved ruler. Remove the muslin from the paper, and , all traced lines on the paper pattern to malte du clearer and more exact. Cut out the paper pattern carefully. Cuty oul darts, cut away all seam allowances, and cut a markings wich little U-shaped cuts which pencil A. The lines are rulcr-straight, slam from the hip to the lower edge. Examples o! Transfer the shoulder dart to the waistline.

It was essential to drape the master blouse with a: both shoulder and waistline because a blouse i8 better when so draped. After Lhe pattern has tted, however, it should be prepared for use a: a3 master block by having all of the dar: transferred w? D0 this to simplify 2 the blocking procedures, even though the dm certainly look too wide at its lower end in relation " its length.

Place the brown paper pattem on tagboard. Thc shilt pnsition o! All without wiLhouL changing dcsign puuem dcsigl] pauern the pattern.

Two tactors comrol fullness:. Cut 8. Cut pattcrn in tagboard exaclly il was draped. I, Thc SySlCl system of designing on a master block patLhe transfer is founded on an understanding underslanding of the of the design detail, thereby thc location ot dar: l a r t 1o the 01' the of ornanxemal and functional. Slashes should be made perpendicular if pos[hat is t0 to be gathered.

Although i: concentrale concentrate all excess in one large master waist-front the bust, the dart in a to the point dart running t0 poim of Lhe blouse to be worn is usually divided into two or more smaller darts pointing toward the bust from two or more different edges of the pattern, because the smaller darts taper out more smoothly.

A blouse ts the gure on all of its edges and there is just enough ease to allow bending and reaching whereas a skirt may t the to gure from waistline to hips, but from there down from lines The the of free the hem, it swings body. T0 be beautiful, a skirt must freedom below the hipline to swing easily with the motion of the gure, and t0 do this it must widen as lt lengthens. Both gored and circular skirts increase in widlh a1 the lower edge, and il c u t with enough are t0 swing freely, are both comfortable to wear and within the is gracelul in motion if the llare placed and thighs.

They include the all-around gathered the dirndl, or peasant skirt the all-around pleated, and the wrap-around skirt.

Most childrcn try t0 make a straight skirt at some time or other, usually on their rst auempt at sewing for a doll. A child's natural procedure is t0 sew the the seams, put in a hem on the grain, and gather excess fabric at the top to t the waistline.

This per-. Draped skirts, on the other hand, the lower edge, up t0 the waistline, [hus narrowing sometimcs so much. So hat wumay should ach ",3 3nd explorc ils possibilitics, you shown. On a gure with a very llat abdomcn but with a prominent back hip curve.

For illustrations t0 of the ellect pf posture m skirt lenglh lrom waist hip sce Chaptcr 5V. Figurcs 2 c, d, e. Figgraceful when gathered in to ures I a and I b show the inuence of texlure lexture on the. The dimdl. The average slraight wo two straight gathered skirt requires widths of 36 inch fabric, minus a straight atraight lengthwise band Laken o off next to the selvage for a belt.

Straight skirt gather 8 or 9 inches below Ihcjf and pinned t0 the form at the hip level. Cm 0E a straight lcnglhwise strip along the selvage twice the Widlh desiredFinishing Seams and Hems l. Pin and stitch the seams and press them open.

Tu r n the hem on a straight crosswise thread. Draw all the gathering up time to make all of the rows equally tight. Attach the skirt t0 a waistband. If the band i: n0 very narrow, use a straight lengthwise strip with shaping. However if it is more than inches wide. Remove the markings transfer d an am,smooth up the linc, to the opposite half. This skirt can be estimatcd and made with Av KT; w rm in its bes: at lt is form. Pressed pleats actually help to slenderize hips if the pleats are well scaled to the size 05 the gure.

A plealed skirt is nol a good choicc, however. For this type of gure. Diiculty waistline and large hips. Esmang fhe Fabric width ol the to have deep pleats, skin is t0 Ihc skirt l. Plcated waistline.